A Dream Come True…
In June, my son and I will walk the Camino Primativo together! I cannot express how grateful I am to share my love of the Camino with him for a few weeks.
Our story
Josh and I have spent many years together running our restaurant. Two years ago I retired and sold the business. We went from working side by side, five sometimes six days a week, to me trying to sort what my life looked like without my creative passion and him trying his hand in another direction. We have missed the time together, and now we have three weeks of putting one step in front of the other, meeting new people and challenges, and enjoying the food, wine, and beer of Spain.
Our Journey….
I will be 74 when we start the Primativo. I don’t know if this would have been the Camino I would have chosen to walk solo at this point in my life. I love the Frances which is always my “go to” but will walk that again in 2025 for a fourth time. The 200 miles of the Primativo will be a prefect Camino for us to share together. He will be patient with my new slow and steady approach to long walks. We share a mutual love of the out of doors, people, and adventure.
- Day #15 Riotinto to Santiago
Roberta, a retired teacher and Pilgrim Office volunteer, shared invaluable insights, making my Camino unforgettable. - Day #14 – Poncesures to Riotinto
Embarking on the Camino de Santiago, where every step brings new friends and unforgettable moments. From stunning landscapes to enriching conversations, the journey is as much about the people you meet as it is about the miles you walk. - Day #13 – Caldas de Reis to Pontecesures
A brilliant day on the Camino! Meeting new people, great chats, and a memorable encounter with Madelyn. - Day # 12 – Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Staying in the same hostel from my past Camino journey, I’m excited to finish my trek and make new memories in Santiago - Day 10 & 11 – Vigo to Rondondela & Rondondela to Pontevedra
The lyrics of one song kept going through my head today, “what goes up must come down”🎵 I have not been very good about reading much information about what the upcoming day is going to look like. So today was a surprise as far as elevation and number of climbs. So quiet solo hikes inContinue reading “Day 10 & 11 – Vigo to Rondondela & Rondondela to Pontevedra” - Day 9 – Nigrán to Vigo
Solo hiking offered quiet contemplation, while the lively plazas of Vigo provided a vibrant contrast. - Day 8 – Viladesuso to Nigran
The trail was a rollercoaster of surprises, with unexpected climbs and descents that kept me on my toes. - Day 7 -A Guarda to Viladesuso
A perfect blend of walking a Camino that takes you through villages, mountain trails, coastal walkways and busy highways. - Day #6 – Vila Praia de Ãncora to Guarde
A whirlwind of activities! From exploring Portugal to Spain, every step was a new discovery. - Day 5 – Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ãncora
An incredible day of exploration, with stunning landscapes, charming villages, and finally a coffee spot or two. - Day 4 – Esposenda to Viana do Costelo
At the next stage of my trip, within five minutes of my walk, I realized what had been missing from the last three days. It was the varied terrain, the birds singing in the woods, the trees, the smells, the river, and the tranquility of a forest. A sense of relief washed over me, and even though I had been doing nothing but flat walking for three days, the climbs felt incredible and like coming home. - Day 3 – Vila do Conde to Esposende
Despite the physical and mental demands of the Camino, I found moments of tranquility and reflection. From the scenic coastal route to the helpful staff at Albergue Ultreya, there’s much to appreciate on this incredible journey - Day 2 – Matosinhos to Vila da Conde
After 17 challenging miles of the Camino Literal, I arrived at the Albergue, exhausted but grateful for the beautiful day. - May 1 – Day 1Porto to Matosinhos As the sun was coming up, I heard birds outside my window. It’s gonna be a great day. I’m not sure that I’ve forgotten or if people are just getting up earlier in Albergue’s. This morning at 3:30 am there was a bustling of activity going on in the hallway. This floorContinue reading “May 1 – Day 1”
- Travel Day – as always patience is needed.Would not suggest this travel itinerary.
- T’was the Night Before….
The night before departure is always an endless blur. I’m thrilled to almost have the planning behind me and the actual trip ahead, filled with the excitement of the unknown. - Day 9 – Logrono to Madrid to Dublin to SeattleAs I coughed my way into the evening, unable to think about leaving my room for food, I decided to either find a hospital or a plane home. Fortunately there was a plane leaving from Logrono to Madrid early in the morning. I could fly from Madrid to Dublin and Dublin home with all connectionsContinue reading “Day 9 – Logrono to Madrid to Dublin to Seattle”
- Day 8 – Lorca to LogronoI’ve been walking since 6 AM and there is no one on the trail in front of me or behind me. I keep checking my map to make sure that I’m on the Frances. A solo, beautiful walk today. I did pass Jen from California that I met the first day on the Pyrenees. AndContinue reading “Day 8 – Lorca to Logrono”
- Day 7- Lorca to Villamayor de MonjardinI will keep this short and sweet….I made it! This respiratory issue with no sleep is taking its toll plus I have no appetite…not a good thing when distance walking. The Spanish countryside kept me moving one step at a time.
- Day 6 – Obanos to LorcaI think that I might’ve been the only pilgrim that stayed in this cute little town. I know I was the only one who stayed in my Albergue/Rural Hotel. I saw the owner one time and then that was it. A nice place for the price, but not the usual friendly Camino welcoming. The goodContinue reading “Day 6 – Obanos to Lorca”
- Day 5 – Pamplona to ObanosThe early start was a great idea. Lots of open area with little shade. Nothing on the Camino is truly flat and it is easy to be caught up with “oh this stage doesn’t have much elevation!” I don’t think that anyone said that about today. It was a long up hill climb to theContinue reading “Day 5 – Pamplona to Obanos”
- Day 4 – Ilarratz to Pamplona
Today the morning was cool and refreshing. A nice walk through some woods and countryside with just a bit of background noise from the freeway that runs parallel to this part of the Camino. I’m looking forward to the day. It’s not as hot as yesterday. If I could whistle like my dad, I wouldContinue reading “Day 4 – Ilarratz to Pamplona” - Day 3 – Burgette to Ilaratz14.8 miles Whew! It was in the low 90’s by the time that we finished today. All of us were cooked and ready for a shower. Unfortunately my albergue was 3k down the road. I walked solo most of the day but ended the day and the dragon’s back down hill with a new friendContinue reading “Day 3 – Burgette to Ilaratz”
- Day 2 – Borda to Burquette
13 miles Today was challenging again. This time it was twice as long. There were so similarities to the Primativo. Lots of climbing and lots of downhills. Truly beautiful scenery. Today the sheep, cows and horse grazed on the sides of the road. I am tired tonight so I am going to sign off withContinue reading “Day 2 – Borda to Burquette” - Day 1 on the FrancesSt Jean to Borda It was perfect temperature for hiking a 2300 foot elevation gain in under 5 miles! The church bells were ringing and the birds were sing me out onto the Camino this morning. All was beautiful until the reality of the climb started to invade my moment of bliss. ✅note to selfContinue reading “Day 1 on the Frances”
- Camino Travel Day
It was an early rise today, 3:00 am to catch my plane from Copenhagen to Paris to Biarritz when a shuttle to St Jean Pied a Port, the start of the Camino Frances. Hummmm. Sitting on the ground in Paris. No one can come out to open our door after landing. It is an electricalContinue reading “Camino Travel Day” - Denmark – Day 4-5Day 4 Today was an incredible day! I was part of a blended family gathering to celebrate a parent’s annual tradition. It was a truly special moment to be a part of it. The day was a celebration of the late spring bloom of years of collection and planting rhododendrons—a total of 1500 to 2000Continue reading “Denmark – Day 4-5”
- Denmark – Day 3Today was centered around food and family as today was a family brunch. We hopped around doing grocery shopping, then pick up Julius. I got to see his first new apartment. The rest of the day was spent cooking, visiting and feasting together. I had previously bulked up🤭 for my Camino but I think thatContinue reading “Denmark – Day 3”
- Denmark – Day 2For those who have not followed my blog over the years…where have you been🤣…I will explain my Danish Family. In 1987 Maria was a foreign exchange student in Montesano. We were her “default” family when things were not matched well with her first host family. In a few short months she became sister/daughter/cousin to allContinue reading “Denmark – Day 2”
- Travel Day – Seattle to Copenhagen
FYI the new carry-on and personal item size is serious business with Icelandair. The scales are out, the new size board is being used and there is no allowing a ½” outside the lines. Somehow the counter person said I was good to go with my pack. I know it is right at 21” 🤭Continue reading “Travel Day – Seattle to Copenhagen” - One day Until the Journey Begins…
I spent the day packing, unpacking, repacking and finally saying I’m ready. Many people have asked me what I take with me so I have done a picture essay of my packing and added it to the blog. Hope it’s helpful for people who are getting ready for their Camino. Because I carry my packContinue reading “One day Until the Journey Begins…” - Time To Get Into Action….
I woke up last weekend and realized I was three weeks from leaving for Spain. I had made a few reservations: my favorite albergue in St Jean Pied de Port, France, and at Borda Albergue on my first night of hiking, but had done very little else. So I started making my way through theContinue reading “Time To Get Into Action….” - I Cannot Ignore the Call of the Camino…
I have walked approximately 2000 miles on Camino trails. I guess it is yet to be enough. I was planning on doing two shorter Camino‘s this year but as I started planning, the Frances called out to me again. I turned 75 in April and for some reason it feels different than just being inContinue reading “I Cannot Ignore the Call of the Camino…” - Day 4 -Lanjarõn
What a beautiful, restful day. It was not quite as hot today or we are adjusting to the arid high country weather. Our day was spent eating, drinking and sitting. Josh and Maria on an early morning trek to the bottom of the canyon to see the river, olive grove, fig trees, pomegranate trees andContinue reading “Day 4 -Lanjarõn” - Post Camino Day 1-3
Lots of lessons learned this Camino! The main one was to be a little gentler on myself. I never want to ask or expect help, and for this Camino. I had to put my pride aside. It definitely is hard to decide if it was the trail that challenged my body or my age. ItContinue reading “Post Camino Day 1-3” - Final Day
Our last trail day was long and a bit difficult for me. Usually I am at my peak walking in this area, but the Camino taught me a few lessons that have humbled me today. Soreness from my fall showed up in my hips which made the long climbs and descents difficult. Josh was hisContinue reading “Final Day” - Day 13 – Melide to A BreaToday was a 17 mile hike full of hills and lots of cafes and bars; finally! My goal today was to have breakfast at one of my favorite small village cafes, and it ended up that we made it for lunch! 10 miles without food thinking it was just around the corner! Going from aContinue reading “Day 13 – Melide to A Brea”
- Day 12 Ferreira to Melide
What started out as a quiet stroll through Galacia… We climbed and descended our way over the hills of the region. The climbs are definitely not the straight up the mountain of previous days, but more gradual climbs and descents; but still challenging with all of the pavement walking. Mostly it was a quiet dayContinue reading “Day 12 Ferreira to Melide” - Day 11 Lugo to FerreiraI love Galicia. Walking through the hills today felt like being home. I loved sharing this area with Josh. Our bodies and minds are in sync today, and we flew through the day. There was a lot of road walking, but they were back roads. Today was quite pleasant except for the pounding our feetContinue reading “Day 11 Lugo to Ferreira”
- Day 10 – Lugo
We are on a walking day through Lugo, replenishing our bodies and minds. In 15 minutes we had first breakfast And second breakfast. Then we went on a wall walk. Old town Lugo was a walled city. Back to our room for a rest then out again for afternoon vermut and beer. Bonus time wasContinue reading “Day 10 – Lugo” - Day 9 – 0 Piñeiro to O Cadavo
First, of my thoughts for the day: I am grateful for my son. He is thoughtful, caring, observant not to bruise my already black and blue ego, and has patience beyond humanly possible. - Day 8 Castro to O Piñeiro
Somehow, I had convinced myself that today was going to be an easier day… HMMM? In a way was easier because we only had a 2000 foot elevation gain instead of 3000 feet. Walking 16 miles was two miles more than I wanted to do, but with no choice we made it to our Albergue.Continue reading “Day 8 Castro to O Piñeiro” - Day 7- La Mesa to CastroI knew Josh was multitalented , but now he can add Madidore to his resume. Our day started with a massive climb of about 1500 feet, and when we reached the top, it was magical because the fog was below us. It looked like we were walking into a a white sea. Unfortunately, we wereContinue reading “Day 7- La Mesa to Castro”
- Day 6 Pola De Allende to La Mesa
I come to this blog tonight from my bed. I feel like a Tour De France rider after the mountain stage who lost their lead because their legs gave out. Unfortunately, there is no massageus helping my legs recover. Three thousand nine hundred two feet of elevation gain today! The morning started out promising; well,Continue reading “Day 6 Pola De Allende to La Mesa” - Day 5 Campiello to Pola De Allande
We decided to do an alternate route today because we were unsure my knee would withstand a big climb and a decent for 19 miles. And also, Allison told us that this village has some of the best Asturian food in the region, so who wouldn’t choose the alternate route? So it was a 9Continue reading “Day 5 Campiello to Pola De Allande” - Day 4 – Bodenaya to Campiello
It was great to be back on the Camino. For most of the day, my knee felt good. I taped and wore a knee brace, and except for specific slopes on the downhills, I did pretty well for 16 miles. We had a Camino Moment today. It was getting late in the day, and weContinue reading “Day 4 – Bodenaya to Campiello” - Day 3 – Cornella to Bodenaya
Well I have had might feet up all day, except for the visit to the bakery, café for second breakfast and then to the market for food before dinner tonight. I was in the grocery store and was trying to buy a knife for some meat and cheese I was taking to Josh. I askedContinue reading “Day 3 – Cornella to Bodenaya” - Day 2 Paladin to CornellanaI call today “highway to hell…when you have a knee injury anyway. I tried all measures to overcome the now up and downhill pain….singing my irritating “Oscar Meyer Weiner” theme song in my head; Josh had enough to deal with. I tried cursing and then laughing. I wanted to cry, but again, Josh had enoughContinue reading “Day 2 Paladin to Cornellana”
- Day 1 & I Thought it Might Be the Last Day….
What the heck? Years of hiking and not a twinge in my knee. That is until today. I was the weak link, and everyone knows I do not like to be the weak link! I was fine climbing but when the downhill came my body let me down. I was in pain most of theContinue reading “Day 1 & I Thought it Might Be the Last Day….” - Two Days of Travel….
Day one: One forgets how much time and energy it takes to get to Europe. Well worth the effort, but the hours in the plane takes it’s toll. And no matter when I go, I never go rested. So our wonderful overnight in Dublin was measured by a great pint of Guiness and mediocre bangersContinue reading “Two Days of Travel….” - I am a bit of a mess….
Walking the Camino is about the experience; letting the journey unfold before you. This is my vision for our journey on the Primativo. I feel a bit unprepared. After numerous Caminos you would think that I could pack without a list, need no new purchases; just jam, bang and take off. Well….. Aging has changedContinue reading “I am a bit of a mess….” - Can It Already be June?
Josh and I are seriously on the count down now. In 15 days we will be boarding the plane for Dublin. This will be our first day adventure in Europe. I am looking forward to spending an evening in pubs with live music, sharing a pint with my “favorite” child (according to his sister😂) NoContinue reading “Can It Already be June?” - Day 8 – Celebrating another year….
How can I possible be 74? Today Brenda went on a tour and I went on a long walk around some back streets and new neighborhoods of Rome; my own food walking/food tour. It was delightful, delicious and just what I needed. I started out again with a croissant and coffee and then I setContinue reading “Day 8 – Celebrating another year….” - Day 7 Rome
My day I started with a wonderful coffee and a fantastic croissant filled with cream. I had once thought the croissant I had in France was the best croissant experience of my lifetime, but I have to say this was better or at least as good. We walked to the train station to welcome Maria’sContinue reading “Day 7 Rome” - Day 6 – Sorrento to Rome
We had another train ride again today. We are returning to Rome, where we will spend four days before heading home. We rode the local train to Naples and then upgraded to the fast train, which saved us two hours. After we checked into our room, we decided to do a whirlwind walkabout through theContinue reading “Day 6 – Sorrento to Rome” - Day 5 – Pompeii
There are a lot of families traveling together. The teenagers seem bored, but I know they will remember their family trip with fond memories as the years go by. Today, I observed two teenage girls intently, looking at their phones until one noticed a flock of chickens outside the train window. They got very excitedContinue reading “Day 5 – Pompeii” - Day 4 – A Favorite Day
This was just the type of day I love about traveling. We did a cooking class in an agriturismo just 20 minutes in the hills above Sorrento. It was wonderful to get out into the rural area of Campaigna seeing the groves of citrus and olive trees and vineyards of local grapes. The Agriturismo PrimaluceContinue reading “Day 4 – A Favorite Day” - Day 3 – Another Travel Day
Our little “hotel”; one floor of a city building, is very charming. At the breakfast this morning we met an interesting couple from New Zealand. They are on a whirl wind European trip to several countries. Today we are going to board a bus, ferry and then another bus, to explore Almafi, Positano, and Ravello.Continue reading “Day 3 – Another Travel Day” - Day 1 and 2 in Italy
Brenda had the food scene all scoped out by the time I arrived in Rome. I think I had traveled 22 hours by the time we made it to our hotel and into bed! First stop Il Mercoto Centrale , right at the Rome train station. Imagine not being really hungry and and having aContinue reading “Day 1 and 2 in Italy” - My Whirlwind Italy Trip…Brenda and I are traveling separately both coming and going to Italy. Brenda is leaving before me with a two-day stopover in Iceland. She will meet me in Rome on April 3. I’m flying out of Seattle in one day. I have a 1.5 hour layover in London at Heathrow Airport which is a bitContinue reading “My Whirlwind Italy Trip…”
- Day 36 O Pino to SantiagoWe gave ourselves an extra hour of sleep to enjoy a daylight walk into Santiago. It was a beautiful day. We all walked at different paces but joined forces to walk into Santiago.
- Day 35 Castaneda to O Pino
As Santiago grows nearer I am doing more reflection on this journey that has taxed my body and my soul. It is so much different than the other two Frances’; not better or not worse, just its own. There was familiarity, and then there was total surprise. Some days, I wondered how I could haveContinue reading “Day 35 Castaneda to O Pino” - Day 34 Palas de Rei to CastanedaI’m sitting here at the end of a 15 mile day watching a cat in the field across from us do it’s afternoon hunting. That’s my entertainment. Life is simple on the Camino. Today’s hike was a lot of climbing hills, especially at the end of the day. Walking through the eucalyptus forests was asContinue reading “Day 34 Palas de Rei to Castaneda”
- Day 33 Portamarin to Palas De Rei
I am tired today. The no rest days are catching up with me and I am out of sync with my Camino. The last few days are a mix of emotions always. People who have been a part of your weekly life are now missing, the end is near, the Camino is busier, and bodyContinue reading “Day 33 Portamarin to Palas De Rei” - Day 32 – Sarria to Portamarin
And then there were SEVEN. This was another great day. Lots of climbing and downhill. The trail is now full of newbies doing the final 100 km to get their Camino Compenstela. I have been meeting quite a few my early Camino friends. Somehow it is like we have know each other for years. AllContinue reading “Day 32 – Sarria to Portamarin” - Day 31 Triacastela to SarriaThere could not have been a more perfect day. The weather, the cool dark start to the day, being on the trail to hear the birds singing their first songs of the day, walking through the forests of Galacia, and having my daughter-in-law share my love of the Camino Frances. It is so nice haveContinue reading “Day 31 Triacastela to Sarria”
- Day 30 – Liñara to Triacastela
Sleepless on the Camino….This was Vini’s first night and Nancy’a 2nd night in a bunk room Albergue. Neither of them could sleep. So we got up at 5:00, out of the Albergue by 6:15 leaving a tramatizes bunk mate. There is an art to leaving a shared room quietly and we failed. But what aContinue reading “Day 30 – Liñara to Triacastela” - Day 29 – Vega De Valarce to Linares
Today we set out to conquer the mountain with headlamps to beat the heat. Luckily today was much cooler; perfect mountain climbing weather. Nancy was a little mountain goat today, so we did not see her until the end of the day. We went from 2000 feet elevation and climbed to 4400 feet in 8Continue reading “Day 29 – Vega De Valarce to Linares” - Day 28 Cacabelas to Vega De Valcarce
It was a wonderful quiet walk in the dark this morning. The moon was full and the sky was an array of stars. The coolness of the morning was a great break from yesterdays finish in the heat of the day. Even though it was a long day of road walking, it was quite pleasant.Continue reading “Day 28 Cacabelas to Vega De Valcarce” - Day 27 Rabanal to Cacabelas
Unfortunately for Nancy, she joined me when I had set up some 15-18 mile days to get to Sarria by the 5th. It is rough to begin your 10 day hiking with these big mileage days. She is doing well, but has a few blisters and sore muscles. From day one she has become comfortableContinue reading “Day 27 Rabanal to Cacabelas” - Day 26 – Rababal De Camino to Molinaseca
I couldn’t quit saying how much I loved this morning’s hike. I know that I even tested Nancy’s patience. I loved the climbing, I loved the pastures, I loved the heather, I loved the smell of the pine trees….. We got into the top and reached Cruz de Fiero. We didn’t make it by sunriseContinue reading “Day 26 – Rababal De Camino to Molinaseca” - Day 25- Astorga to Rabanal
Hmmm, as easy as yesterday seemed for the same mileage, today was much harder. It was the heat with barely any shade. It was in the mid 80’s today with no wind. This was a real test for day #1 for Nancy. She did a great job! Today was a day of meeting new CaminoContinue reading “Day 25- Astorga to Rabanal” - Day 24 Hospital De Órbigo to Astorga
Today was a perfect day. It seemed fo fly by. It was so much fun having a day with Barb and Alan. It was great doing some climbing again and my friend Nancy Dale is in Santiago making her way to Astorga by bus. And the Astorga appeared and a the city walk in thatContinue reading “Day 24 Hospital De Órbigo to Astorga” - Day 23 – La Virgin del Camino to Hospital De Orbigo
Today I felt like I was on the Camino. I know that sounds strange, but I felt a lightness. No more huge Camino signs that no one can miss. I am back to having to look for those yellow arrows and being in the moment as I walk. Today was 17 miles and I feelContinue reading “Day 23 – La Virgin del Camino to Hospital De Orbigo” - Day 22 – Leon to La Virgin del Camino
As I left Leon this am I ran into a Camino friend for sharing an albergue in . She had injured her ankle in the downhill into Zubiri and here she is still waking the Camino with an injury. We walked together until just outside the La Virgin del Camino, then she was on herContinue reading “Day 22 – Leon to La Virgin del Camino” - Day 22 Leon
Wow! Did I need this. After clearing out my pack and having a lengthy conversation with T-Mobile (which they resolved the problem in the most caring way) I sat in the plaza and watched people and had a delightful Italian 🤣lunch. Leave it to my nose to lead me to Italian. I soon found myselfContinue reading “Day 22 Leon” - Day 21 – to Shahgun to Leon
Last night I made my final decision. I am taking the train to Leon and get some rest. It was a difficult decision to leave the last three days on the Meseta, but my body needs a break and I need to be in a Astorga by the 28th. As I was walking along, IContinue reading “Day 21 – to Shahgun to Leon” - Day 20- Carrion De Los Conder to San Nicolas del Real
Today was 20 miles. I am trying to make up for some short days early on. The morning was amazing. I took off at 5:30 AM and there was no one in front of me or behind me for about two hours. The skies were beautiful; full of stars. This part of the walk wasContinue reading “Day 20- Carrion De Los Conder to San Nicolas del Real” - Day 19 – Frómista to Carrion de Los Conder
I very rarely have dreams about my sister; maybe never in my adult life… it’s complicated. But last night I dreamed that she was in my private room with me. This morning the dream was weighing heavy on my mind. On the Camino Meseta I have done some soul searching each time, but never feltContinue reading “Day 19 – Frómista to Carrion de Los Conder” - Day 18 – Castrojerez to Fromista
The hill climb went on for about 3/4 of a mile. It was steeper than I thought it would be and I almost fell off the side of the mountain trying to adjust the bill on my rain poncho! Note to self: figure your gear out before you are in harsh weather on a mountainContinue reading “Day 18 – Castrojerez to Fromista”